When the news broke this week that Sarah Burton is the new creative director of Givenchy, it was her PR photo that caught my attention more than the announcement itself. In a simple black cashmere sweater with wool twill trousers, modernist glasses and two layered necklaces, it’s a very good reminder that great foundational pieces are all you truly need to look stylish.
I was at the Matches Fashion (RIP!) London office when news struck that Alexander McQueen had tragically died in May 2010. I watched in real-time as orders for McQueen pieces flew out that afternoon and when Sarah succeeded, I wondered how long her tenure there would feel tied to that tragic event. Sarah stayed on for thirteen years, steering the McQueen brand in his legacy while carving a new stable sensibility that included Kate’s wedding dress. Givenchy has meanwhile rapidly shifted through brilliant creative directors in three-year cycles so only time will tell if this succession has the tenacity to turn an iconic brand like Givenchy toward LVMH’s longstanding goals. As the second woman to head design at Givenchy, Sarah follows Clare Waight Keller, a designer I also adore for her menswear sensibility and personal style. Both in their fifties, their style characterises the ease of uniform pieces. Whether it’s a crisp blue shirt, a cashmere knit, blue wash denim, timeless grey blazers or an iconic trench coat, these are the foundational pieces that you’ll see as a distinct aesthetic uniform amongst designers, editors, stylists & make-up artists.
Earlier this month, it was also announced that Clare would become Uniqlo’s new creative director, overseeing not just the brilliant Uniqlo: C line but the brand’s core offerings. I’m not sure I’ve been so excited about a high-street brand since Jo Sykes took over British high-street brand Jigsaw. Inspired by some of the best high-street pieces I’ve seen of late, I pulled together a selection of uniform pieces I have personally vetted. Enjoy!
Three trench coats I can’t get enough of
I don’t need one of those index apps to catalogue how many times I wear a garment because I know a good trench is always a most-worn item.
Cut from 100% silk twill (with a water resistant finish) in a delicious chocolate hue, this A-Line trench coat is one of my favourite pieces this season. The deep inverted pleat creates theatrical volume that swings, giving movement to this glorious fabric. I love this buy because it will take you through all the seasons and works exceptionally well if you travel often too. Taking inspiration from the silk twill trench coats that Jo Sykes created for the brand last year (and which sold out quickly!) I recommend you don’t (metaphorically) sit on it. Take your regular size.
This layered trench coat from COS gives me strong Loewe vibes and I was very impressed when I saw it in person. Unusually for COS, this is a style that suits more petite frames and if you usually struggle with the Scandinavian brand’s sizing, you’ll be pleasantly surprised here. The layered green lapel is detachable which lends to its versatility and longterm use. If you’re petite and scared of trench coats (as most are) order and surprise yourself!
This new snap-button trench by Arket reminds me of the khaki Burberry one this season. While the brand is known for it’s oversized fits, this piece works particularly well if you are tall or of a bigger build. Crafted from 100% cotton it’s a very good piece for the price and style. I love the wide-cut sleeves and storm flap detail - I predict this will sell-out quickly though.
Two cashmere jumpers that don’t break the bank
I popped into Uniqlo to see the latest collection and thoroughly vet the Uniqlo:C design pieces. I left with just one piece - this cashmere jumper - and I will be back for seconds.
I am writing this newsletter while wearing this exact piece and I think it’s one of my favourite finds for this season. Clare has created a cashmere jumper with perfect proportions for the high-street. The high v-neck is an exquisite design detail and pairs so well with all the chunkier collared necklaces this fall. The colour range is beautiful (I’m wearing the olive which is more of a brownish-green with depth than online) and the fit is just that bit oversized which makes it seem as though you’ve borrowed off the man in your life. Take your normal size (no need to size up!)
It’s a little known editor secret that M&S has some of the best Mongolian cashmere on the high-street. Truly affordable and will last a lifetime with care, these crew-neck sweaters are perfectly proportioned. I tend to advise sizing up for a roomier fit. The navy and black are my favourite shades for capsule wardrobes but the ‘cappuccino’ shade will be a new go-to this season.
Three wool pleated trousers you can wear everywhere
Often I am asked for the best ‘modern’ trouser, ones that you can wear to the office and beyond. Trousers are such a personal choice but here are my picks of the best on the high-street for a uniform approach. As ever look to good fabrication with a high wool content, I can’t stress this enough, cheap fabrics on trousers do no-one any favours.
Jigsaw wins again with these tailored Kemp trousers crafted in wool twill, from Japanese heritage mill, Takisada. Tailored in-house with a bespoke pattern, the Kemp trouser is the ultimate in fit. Medium rise, wide leg with double pleat detailing at the waist for a fluid silhouette. I particularly love this fit on curvy body shapes too. Currently on sale - run!
I do love a barrel-leg shape for a directional touch and these black wool-blend twill with pleats sit very well across the waist and derrière. They’re designed with a cropped finish, which I love for the winter with excellent socks and loafers. The price is brilliant and they compare really favourably to some other high-end designers we know. I would size up and if you’re on the super short side, get your tailor ready for some necessary hemming.
Arket’s dressed twill trousers are made from a stretchy wool blend with recycled polyester too. A full-length, lined style detailed with a mid-cut waist and legs with press creases. An excellent value staple under £100. I advise to stay true to size although curvier hips may want to size up.
A straightforward breakdown this week!
xC
*This free issue contains affiliate links, although trust me when I say I’ve hand-picked every item. I only showcase the pieces I would suggest to my own clients.
Sarah Burton's Givenchy appointment pic is as impeccable as her work - I must admit, it made me covet her glasses and jewellery! I was sad to hear she was leaving McQueen, she did put her own stamp on things there and brought a tailoring-focused brand through a decade of athleisure, no mean feat (loved the mini-exhibitions they used to do of Lee-era work alongside hers on the top floor of the Old Bond Street store, I was poleaxed the first time I got up there and found the Sarabande and Widows of Culloden dresses just there, two feet away from my nose with no protective glass and close enough to touch)
I love trench coats. Classy, timeless and make you look assertive.