September is the January of fashion and while the apples are tumbling off branches, we’re getting ready to reset. Last week we discussed how this is a very good time to pause and take stock of our wardrobes, especially if you want to buy sustainably. It’s also the most tempting time of year to throw hard earned cash at new-season trends. When you begin to build a sustainable wardrobe, you’ll notice that while it helps to have an eye on trends, the reality is that your key wardrobe staples will naturally be somewhat trendless. The tweak of a collar, the length of a skirt and the fit of a coat all change the feel of a garment, but if you pick well, these are the staples that will live with you. These are the pieces that will carry you effortlessly through the shifting seasons becoming wardrobe stalwarts if you will.

Building a wardrobe is akin to baking; let your fundamentals - the flour, eggs, sugar and butter - be the very best quality you can find. These are your coats, boots, knits etc the heavy duty lifters of every day. For decorating, flourish with your trend-led seasonal additions (boho, studded, costume jewellery etc this fall). Think of the mix as 80/20 - as with most things in life!
An heirloom-worthy investment.
Coats should never be scrimped on. A very good coat will last you exactly a lifetime (or two). When I lived in Berlin in 2012, I invested in a Yves Salomon parka that saw me through twelves years of wear before I resold it. Buying a second-hand coat can be super smart if you pick a high-quality brand. I found a toasty hued Maxmara Crombie coat in 2018 on Vestiaire that is still one of my best finds. I smiled when I saw a subscriber write last week that ‘good quality clothes can bounce back from a lot more than crappy ones can.’ This is never more appropriate than with coats which need to be duty proof. Always check the label for fabric composition, as five years ago you could buy 100% wool coats on the high-street but they’re sadly few and far between now. While pure wool coats may be on the pricier side, the investment is often justified by their longevity and superior performance. In my opinion you only need to begin with three coats; a trench, a classic wool coat & a utilitarian jacket. Keep to the rule of three for all bases covered and then you can add a fantastic vintage shearling, faux fur, leather bomber or suede jacket.
My top tip? Never buy a high ratio polyester to wool mix coat (anything above 20% isn’t worth it in my opinion and yes that includes Toteme!) While the polyester can add more structure, you’ll find yourself de-fluffing on the daily. Remember, we’re making life easier for ourselves, not harder.
Wool Only!
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