Being a Londoner is a lot like being a magpie; you’re constantly eyeing new corners of the city while reacting to the city’s fast-paced heartbeat and absorbing new trends through street style osmosis. Funnily enough, a recent study found that Magpies don’t actually steal shiny objects and, in fact, are found to be afraid of new things. This all fits nicely into my theory that as the world seems increasingly unstable, we yearn less for novelty and more for the stability of the past - what’s the fashion equivalent of the lipstick index? A Row-ish dupe suede handbag that’s gone viral perhaps? Of course, our ability to predict the future economy does depend on whether the world is at peace or at war and frankly, it feels as though we are deep in the trenches of late. Thankfully, this season feels - for want of a better word - grounded. Bold textures and smart silhouettes take on a streetwise attitude that feels very ‘new London.’
The New Neutral
From moss green to military khaki, green is proving its stability as a shade with lasting roots. I have a personal colour theory that when the light shifts in autumn, we all look best steering clear of high-contrast colours. I find myself welcoming so little black in to my wardrobe these days due to the wider range of tones championed by designers. By letting in a murkier colour palette of versatile ‘non-shades’ in earthy hues like greens, you’ll find it easier to style existing pieces. Think of green as a grounded staple: the khaki trench, trouser or jacket that literally anchors an outfit. Meanwhile a zingy accent in yellow-toned green adds warmth and decadence to accessories and evening looks. Mix with golds, greys, navy, yellows, leathers, leopard print and rich wool textures for seamless style this autumn.
North Of The River
Some Londoners will refuse to go north or south of the river on the grounds that it practically requires a passport. As London continues to expand, the reality is that what was once the epicentre is now an amalgamation of distinct villages situated under one stylish umbrella. Way up north, Scotland is also having a timely style moment. Couture houses such as Hermés, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada are among a raft of brands that have always favoured Scottish textiles and factories. Think less sloaney country classic and more 1980s Sex Pistols tartan punk. Young London designers like Molly Goddard and Chopova Lowena are picking up where McQueen and Westwood left off, leading the charge with rebellious takes on kilts and knits we all want to wear. Mix this season’s biker boots and patent ballet flats with layers of textured tweeds and silver tones for easy styling. All one has to do is pretend to own a weekend bothy in Scotland. After all, tartan never goes out of fashion.
Bear With Me
I’m not even an Eastenders fan, and yet all I can think of is the legendary ‘Pat Butcher’ (notorious East End boss lady in a longstanding BBC soap) character this season. An iconic Londoner, Pat embodied ‘the London look’ long before Kate Moss was paid handsomely by Rimmel to don a faux fur leopard coat and red lippie. Pat (& Kate to be fair) love a dash of leopard print and whether it’s a silk print shirt or a pony-haired knee-high boot, I’m here for this wild revival. On the runway Saint Laurent sent mob style faux fur coats with little underneath while Dolce & Gabanna committed to full gangster vibes. Celine stayed coquettish but with collars that meant business while Balenciaga upcycled resin-aged faux-fur coats for dramatic effect. We’ve seen more wearable teddy coats on the catwalk since 2018 and longterm readers will know I’m a big fan Maxmara’s iconic Teddy Coat as a forever buy. Whether you’re a minimalist or maximalist just remember the styling is plenty of attitude and very little else.
It always seems slightly off-kilter to talk about current season drops while the next annual shows are happening. Capitalism always wants you to be focused on the next big thing. However, I like to stick to my own roots in magazines and slow things right down to the present while focusing on the trends with lasting appeal. Let’s live in real-time no?
Happy autumn styling,
xC
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Ahhhh London, my favorite city in the world. The fashion seen on the streets is always so inspiring. Richmond and Hampstead Heath will always have my heart ❤️
"I find myself welcoming so little black in to my wardrobe these days due to the wider range of tones championed by designers." — yes yes yes! I stopped wearing black (minus full black outfits) after COVID because it felt too somber, and I feel like my outfits suddenly got so much more interesting. This read like a fun, fashion tabloid and I'm here for it!